If I had to list in order of importance the parts needed to build a PC from scratch, the case or chassis would always be at the top of the list after the motherboard.
And the explanation is simple. A series of key factors for good performance depend on the box, which also facilitates its assembly and subsequent handling for cleaning and maintenance or replacement of elements.
Sufficient space. Important point to note. The maximum width must allow the installation of large CPU heatsinks (and save the height of RAM modules that are not low-profile). If you don't take this into account, you may one day consider changing the heatsink and find yourself with the unpleasant surprise that it doesn't fit and you can't close the lid. Ideally you should get a case with at least 175 mm maximum heatsink height. All heatsinks and cases usually indicate this measurement.
If you care about silence. If you are looking for a silent case, check that it is well insulated and consider improving the noise level by replacing the standard fans, if the case includes them.
Good airflow design. Good airflow design is essential. Make sure your case allows you to play with at least two possible airflow configurations and if not, try to confirm that the design proposed by the manufacturer provides efficient cooling.
Accessible. Try to choose a chassis that provides quick and easy access to all its corners and does not require complicated disassembly and assembly manoeuvres. To do this, check videos and reviews where you can see a complete assembly of the chosen case.
Is it a robust case? The quality of the materials used for lids, hinges and other moving or removable parts is something to look at. As far as possible, find out which parts may be weaker or more susceptible to breakage with use. You can always ask where you see a published review.
Aesthetics. I leave this point at the end of the list because, at least in my opinion, all the previous points are basic and if they are met, the aesthetics of the box can be sacrificed a little if it is efficient.
I went between a couple of Antec's closed case models that are advertised as being quiet and settled on the P10C because it is slightly cheaper, larger and a little less heavy than the alternative, the P101 Silent, and they share the same width.
It arrives in the correct packaging and with the usual protection.
There is more information on the outside of the box than in the (almost non-existent) manual, which is limited to a small fold-out brochure with graphics (also available in PDF) with very few details on assembly. There is not much more on the product page either.
Antec hasn't gone all out this time. My old box from the same brand included a very complete and detailed manual. I understand that the installation of most components has no more science than fitting them in their corresponding space, but some more information, measurements and advice would have been appreciated.
At the bottom, next to the power supply you can find a white cardboard box inside a drive bay containing the brief manual for the case and fan controller including hardware, a few small black cable ties and a velcro strip (there are two more in the box on the wiring).
I'll start with the airflow because Antec has a design that I didn't like at first. The case lacks an air outlet on its top panel and suggests adding a fan above the power supply to pull air towards the graphics card. In fact, an earlier version of this model, called FLUX, includes that fan as standard and the left side cover (looking at the case from the front) with an air intake grille.
*All the standard (non-PWM) fans included in the case have been replaced by the Noctua NF-A12x25 and Arctic P12 Slim fans I used in my previous case.
In red those that extract air (exhaust) and in blue those that introduce air (intake) and the air inlet points.
This review continues on page 2
